But sometimes you hit the bull's-eye.

Thai Square sits quietly, almost hidden, at the busy commercial intersection of Columbia Pike and Glebe Road in Arlington. Even if you're driving by slowly, you can easily miss it - and your chance at authentic Thai food that makes you a believer in its bold flavors and succumb to the power of fiery chilies.

Thai Square is simple and unassuming, bucking the trend of neon hipness that unfortunately in my experience has meant diluted flavors and inflated prices. It earnestly offers up the kind of consistent goodness that will win you over and have you calling for take-out during your evening commute or planning your next group dinner there.

The dining area is small, but the table set-up is very flexible to easily accommodate groups of various sizes. When you sit down at your table with its simple, white tablecloths, basic glasses and stemware, and traditional, white plates, have confidence that the food juxtaposes nicely against this backdrop of simplicity.

The cold appetizers are almost always on point. The larb (minced meat salad) has a dark, smoky spiciness that is nicely complimented by crisp lettuce. The yum talay (assorted seafood salad) strikes you with its expert marriage of red onions, cilantro, chilies, and lime juice, which is tossed with plump shrimp, scallops, and squid. Slightly missing the mark is the somtum, which is a salad of julienned green papaya mixed with shrimp, peanuts, spices, lime juice, and fish sauce. This is a ubiquitous Issan classic (referring to the culture of Northeastern Thailand), but the version here could be given more attention.

The entrée selection has the usual suspects, but Thai Square distinguishes itself with its honest execution of the standard favorites. The kai padprick kraprao (chicken sautéed with chili and basil leaves) is fresh with a light sauce, and the crispy basil leaves offer great texture and flavor. The pad ped moo pa (sautéed pork with Thai eggplant, bamboo shoots, string beans, and chili paste) is done just right in a spicy red sauce, with string beans that are not overcooked and that, be careful, are almost indistinguishable from the chilies! While the curries tend to be heavy on coconut milk, they are the truest I've had, exhibiting a great balance of spices and fresh vegetables. The green curry, with its succulent Thai eggplant, stands out.

Service is refreshingly efficient. The staff might seem impersonal on a busy night, but you admire and appreciate how well they handle the crowds. The kitchen gladly accommodates your tolerance for chilies, and Thai Square is one of the very few places that will actually make it extra hot when you request it. If you dare go for extra chilies, take comfort that as you sweat and sniffle to overcome the fire in your mouth, the bill will give you cause to smile. Prices are moderate, and Thai Square proves that you don't need to pay airfare to Thailand for such an authentic treat.

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Tony Wolfe
Contributing writer: Restaurants
tony@dcnites.com